New Years

Happy New Year!

New Years is traditionally the biggest and most important holiday in Japanese culture.

Of course, I wanted to learn as much about this holiday and it's traditions as I could. Luckily for me, my student and good friend Ayako invited me to her family's house for the night. I met her at my train station in the afternoon of December 31, and we traveled on two trains to a station near her house where her father met us with his car. After a very short (but winding through many very small side streets) drive, we arrived at her house where I met her mom and older brother.

Her mom has been studying English at a conversation school and was able to talk to me a bit. Graciously, Ayako translated between her family and I most of the time, though. Together we all sat together for tea and apple pie. We talked a little bit about their dogs, but mostly talked about Kyoto, an old city in Japan with many many temples and shrines, that I hope to visit with Ayako later in the winter. I saw some pictures from their last two trips. Ayako and her mother and grandmother have gone the last two falls, it seems. Autumn is the best time to visit Kyoto because of it's fantastic display of the fall colors.

I spent the rest of the afternoon laughing and talking with Ayako in her bedroom. Well, it was a sleepover after all.

The silly girl giggling and secret-telling was interrupted by dinner. And so wonderfully so. Mmmm Dinner. We had Kiritanpon Nabe, Tempura (shrimp, sweet potatoes, mushrooms, and lotus root, each deep fried), Toshikoshi Soba (long soba noodles, for long life), rice, and red wine. It was all so delicious! We talked about the States and Denver and Japan. After the meal, everyone leaned back and said, "Ounakai pai" (I'm full--directly translates, I have had enough).

Music and more talking and story telling occupied the time until midnight! We went downstairs a little before the hour to watch the bell ringing at temples all over Japan on TV and to see the fireworks set off at midnight.

Shortly after we wished each other "Happy New Year!" Ayako, her parents, and I walked to the nearby shrine. As we wandered through small streets and walkways, we could listened to the banging of a large drum and the ringing of the bells growing louder with every twist and turn. The first thing I saw when we got there was the waving lights from the bonfires that were lighting the shrine's square and keeping people warm. Then I saw the line. The line extended out of the shrine and down the block. We couldn't see the end of it until we were right up on it. Luckily it moved very quickly. Luckily, because we were cold! As we got into the square, we warmed up and I got my first look around at what was going on, what we were here to do. There was a booth to one side that was distributing hot Otoso sake (a sweet thick sake) to keep everyone warm. There was a very large drum being beaten by anyone who wanted to give it a try. On the right, was a building in which the shrine was selling different charms, but the most popular item seemed to be a blunted arrow to kill the evil within us.

The large line was waiting to pay a small devotion of 100 yen, give reverence to the shrine, ring the bell, and say a short prayer for the new year. Finally, to one side, people could buy a New Year fortune to see what kind of year you were likely to have. Then most people tied their fortune to the small low branches of a nearby tree. (I kept mine as a souvenir, as that was how I saw it. If you are curious, I got the best possible fortune, saying I would have a small trouble in the beginning of the year that would turn out to be nothing. Then everything would be wonderful after that.)


After taking our turn at the front of the line, we each got a small cup of the sake. While sipping at them, I took a turn at the drum, Ayako and her family talked to some neighbors, and I got my fortune. We tarried in the warmth of the fire a moment more, and then made the short walk home to get ready for bed.

The next morning, Ayako and I slept late, until about 11 am. (The black out sliding doors and windows on her room had fooled me into thinking it was still night time.) By the time I was dressed and downstairs, the table was beautifully set with gorgeous lacquerware and the special New Years knots and other decorations. Red and White are the colors of the day. Just before we ate, the family gave me a present, which was very sweet of them to do, of a Japanese kimono-silk purse. I learned that it is common for children to get gifts of money on New Years morning from their parents and friends of the family. Then it was time for the traditional New Years Day meal.

I think this is a good time to mention that in a traditional Japanese daily menu, there is little difference between what is set before you at breakfast, lunch, or dinner, except to say that breakfast and lunch are the larger meals, while dinner is smaller. But the selection of food is about the same. I should note that many people in modern Japan, with it's embrace of Western influences, have cereal or pancakes, or the like for breakfast now.

A traditional Japanese New Year's Day meal starts with a small amount of (very tasty) herb flavored sake. Then a box about 1 foot square is set on the table. This is called Osechi Ryori.



It is three tiers of the same size and a lid. In the bottom tier were boiled potatoes, a kind of yam, carrots, green beans, lotus roots, and some thick noodles. In the middle tier held prawn (Ayako's favorite), roast beef, sour flavored fish, sweet flavored fish, more fish and some more fish. The top tier had all kinds of sweets: gelatins, rolled sweets, and sweet beans.

As the meal ended, Ayako's family read the nengajo they hadgotten in the mail. Nengajo is the name for special cards sent before the holiay that the post office delivers special on New Year's Day. (I should have written many, but you know how holidays tend to sneak up on Americans, or at least on me.)

Later Ayako and her mother taught me how to play an easier version of a New Years card game called bouzumekuri. We played about 3 times while drinking tea and eating a few chocolates. I really enjoyed spending the time with Ayako and her mom.

Not too much later, it was time for me to go home. The family insisted that I come to visit them again. I am sure I will, as long as they do me the honor of coming to eat at my apartment sometime, too. Then, Mr. Kobayashi was very kind and drove me home instead of my having to navigate the trains, which didn't run as often on the holiday.

The next two days, January 2nd and 3rd, are extended New Years holiday and are mostly days of visiting relatives and resting in Japan. Most shops and businesses are closed.

Current Music : This Could be Love by Alkaline Trio
Current Mood: Rested, very well rested